EPISODE 2.
DENIM PARTNER INTERVIEW
제작 과정
A pair of denim goes through quite a few processes before it's completed, more than you might think.
After choosing the fabric and creating a pattern, it goes through cutting, sewing, and washing. Then, once the canton, rivets, and leather label are attached, the denim we wear is finally complete.
However, among these processes, there is one particularly intricate step.
That's washing.
Even if the same fabric is used to make identical items, the mood changes completely depending on how much color is removed, which areas are lightened, and which areas retain color.
What's most interesting is that while it might seem like a process that's done uniformly by machines, it actually involves a lot of human handiwork.
To our washing partner, who has been creating ORR's denim with us,
we asked how that subtle color we want is created,
why each piece of denim, even if the same, is slightly different,
and what exactly makes good washing different.
These are stories we didn't know because we usually only see the finished denim.
Let's hear them one by one.
Q.1
How does a pair of jeans undergo the washing process?
Once the sewing is complete, the product arrives at the washing factory, where the work direction is determined based on the target color.
Even with the same denim, the process varies depending on the desired color and expression. The intensity of bleaching, the degree of fading, and the strength of brushing and spraying are adjusted to match the target color.
After washing, the product is sent to the finishing team, where it is fitted with cantons, rivets, and leather labels, and then ironed, completing the pair of denim.
Q.2
There's more manual work involved than I thought?
Yes. Denim washing involves a higher proportion of manual labor than one might expect.
The process we call 'hand brushing' involves applying chemicals directly by hand, and the process called 'X-ray' also involves spraying each individual product to create the desired look.
Because people do the work manually, there are bound to be subtle differences between products, even if they are made to the same standards.
That's why, no matter how much we try to follow the same standards, I don't think there's any such thing as 100% identical denim. I believe that each piece having a slightly different look is the natural charm of washed denim.
Q.3
Is there any particularly difficult washing process?
Stonewashing is a prime example.
While regular washing can handle about 70-80 pieces at once, stonewashing often processes a small quantity of 7-8 pieces at a time.
Because the contact points of the stones and the degree of friction vary with each product, subtle tone differences naturally occur.
Therefore, rather than mechanically making all products identical, it's crucial to meticulously manage natural variations within the standards set by Orga.
▲ Stone with dye applied
Q.4
Is it difficult to get the exact same color every time, even if you keep producing the same color?
While we try our best to meet the standards, there are many variables in washing.
Not only the strength of the chemicals and the working time, but also the drying condition is important. Even if the drying speed changes depending on the weather or temperature, there can be subtle differences in the result.
Therefore, the first product requires sufficient testing to accurately achieve the desired color. On the other hand, reorder products can achieve colors more stably based on the accumulated work data from previous productions.
Q.5
I think we also need to consider the environmental aspects when talking about the washing process.
Yes. As denim washing is a process that uses water and chemicals, we carefully manage how they are used and how they are discharged. Wastewater generated during the washing process is not discharged directly; it undergoes an additional purification process before discharge, and we continuously monitor it through weekly inspections by the management corporation.
With Or, we are also continuously researching various methods to reduce water and chemical usage, including clean water systems, eco-friendly equipment, and laser washing. We believe that maintaining a clean environment where products are made, in addition to the quality of the products themselves, is a crucial part of creating good denim.
Q.6
One last question. Is it really best not to wash denim at all?
Among denim enthusiasts, there are some who wear their jeans for a long time without washing them. As they continue to wear them, natural creases and fading develop according to their body shape and lifestyle, and they enjoy these changes as part of denim's charm. However, not all denim care methods are the same. Mid-blue or light-blue denim that has already undergone significant fading will experience relatively less color change, whereas dark-colored denim, which retains more dye, requires a bit more caution regarding color bleeding and dye transfer.
